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Conventional or government loan: the full comparison

Nelson Paredes · REALTOR® · One Stop Realty Center Inc

Updated November 4, 2026

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The mother difference is who backs the loan: on a conventional loan, nobody, and Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac's rules govern; on FHA, VA and USDA loans a government agency guarantees it, with published floors. In practice your credit, your money down and the home decide it: each program wins a different case.

How we checked it

That is the equity line where the conventional loan's insurance switches off and the conventional advantage becomes real: FHA's, with little money down, never switches off inside the loan, and neither does USDA's. That is why, with strong credit, the conventional loan usually wins over time even when it looks pricier on day one.

This guide brings no new figures: it arranges the ones already verified against HUD, the VA, the USDA, the FHFA and Fannie Mae in this site's per-program guides (October and November 2026). What always remains to confirm is the same: the floor your lender adds above the program's, and the total cost on your numbers and your years in the home. Checked November 4, 2026.

Why it matters

Almost every buyer chooses among four loans: the conventional, which the government does not back, and the three it does (FHA, VA and USDA). There is no better one in the abstract: there is one that fits your credit, your money and the home you are looking at. This puts them face to face.

The mother difference: who backs it and who sets the rules

On a government loan, a federal agency (HUD, the Department of Veterans Affairs or the USDA) guarantees the lender a share if you stop paying. In exchange, the agency publishes the program rules: its floors are the same at every lender, and the lender adds its own on top. On a conventional loan there is no agency: the rules of Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac rule, since they buy most of these loans.

The loanWho backs itIts own gate
ConventionalNobody: Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac buys itNo area, income or service gate
FHAHUDNone: it is the most open front door
VAThe Department of Veterans AffairsHaving served, with your certificate (COE)
USDAUSDA Rural DevelopmentThe home in an eligible rural area and your income under its cap

Face to face, on what decides it

ConventionalFHAVAUSDA
Minimum down payment3% through conditional paths; 5% standard3.5% with a 580+ score0%0%
Published credit floor620 (Fannie Mae matrix)500 with 10% down; 580 with 3.5%The program publishes noneThe program publishes none
Upfront program costNoneUpfront premium: 1.75%Funding fee: 1.25–3.30%Upfront fee: 1.00%
Annual insurance costPMI if you come in under 20%; it ends when you reach 20% equityMIP 0.50–0.55%; with under 10% down, for the life of the loanNone0.35%, for the life of the loan
CapsThe amount: $832,750 in Miami-Dade and Broward (2026); above that, jumboHUD's amount limit by countyNo cap with full entitlementHousehold income up to 115% of the median
The homePrimary, second home or investmentPrimary residencePrimary residencePrimary residence in an eligible area

The row that moves the most money over time is not the down payment: it is the insurance that never ends. An FHA loan with 3.5% down and a USDA loan carry their annual cost until you sell or refinance into another loan type; the conventional one switches off on its own at 20%. Each program in detail: conventional, FHA, VA and USDA.

With your numbers, not the example. With five questions and no credit check: how many properties for sale are within your reach and what you'd pay a month.

I want to see what I can buy

PMI vs MIP: the two insurances, compared

The most searched comparison is the insurance one, because they look alike in the monthly payment and are alike in nothing else. PMI belongs to the conventional loan; MIP belongs to FHA.

PMI (conventional)MIP (FHA)
Who sets the priceA private insurer, from your credit and your down paymentHUD: the same rate for everyone
How muchNo public rate; your figure is on your Loan Estimate1.75% upfront and 0.50–0.55% a year
How it endsYou request it at 80% of the original value; on its own, at 78%With under 10% down, never inside the loan
If your credit is bruisedThe premium goes upThe premium does not change: its edge with bruised credit

And the "lender-paid" insurance? It is a PMI variant where the lender pays the premium and charges you through a higher rate. In favor: no insurance line in your payment and no waiting for 20% to "remove" it. Against: it never comes off — the higher rate lasts the life of the loan unless you refinance — and over many years in the home it can cost more than regular PMI. The honest comparison is total cost over the years you plan to stay. PMI in detail is in its guide.

How to choose: three questions in order

  1. 1Did you serve in the armed forces?If you hold your Certificate of Eligibility, the VA loan almost always wins: $0 down and no annual insurance. Start there.
  2. 2Is the home in a rural area and your income under the cap?If both are yes, the USDA competes with the VA without asking for service: $0 down and program costs below FHA's. In Miami-Dade and Broward the eligible area is the exception: check the address before counting on it.
  3. 3How are your credit and your down payment money?With bruised credit and little money, FHA is the door that stays open (580 with 3.5% down). With strong credit, the conventional loan usually costs less over time, because its insurance switches off at 20% and it pays no government upfront premium.

The programs, for your case. Answer the basics — where you want to buy, the price, how many live in the home and your income — and see which Miami-Dade and Broward programs could fit you, with their amount and whether they are open today.

I want to see my programs

Sources

  • Each program's figures are the ones verified in this site's guides against its official source: FHA at HUD (Mortgagee Letter 2023-05), VA at va.gov, USDA at rd.usda.gov, and the conventional loan at the FHFA and Fannie Mae's matrix.
  • Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB), the PMI exits under the Homeowners Protection Act: consumerfinance.gov

We run the comparison on your numbers.

The general table points the way; your case decides. With your credit, your down payment and the home you are looking at, we will tell you which loan costs you least in total. Leave us your number and we will go over it with you.

This guide orients you, it does not advise you. The ranges are estimates, and final terms are set by the lender, the insurance company, or the homeowners or building association, based on your specific case.

Whenever you want to move ahead, we handle it with you.